Pictured the cut out for mounting the trim cabling / actuator.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Monday, September 28, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Rudder Complete
Thursday, September 24, 2009
All rudder rivets complete
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Rudder skin riveting complete and bending the rudder leading edge
Also began bending the leading edge of the rudder using the taped steel pipe method as outlined in the manual, I will probably enlist some help to get this completed tomorrow night.
Monday, September 21, 2009
More rudder skin riveting
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Closing the rudder
Before commencing I placed a dap of rtv sealant at the tips of the stiffeners where they come together at the trailing edge.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Rudder progress
Good progress on more elevator stiffeners first today, then back to the rudder.
The new bucking bars arrived so I went back to the rudder horn brace riveting.
It was quite difficult, but using the smallest bucking bar, which only weighs a half pound, I was able to drive the AN470 rivets in the R-710 rudder horn brace. The light bucking bar and the tight space makes it quite difficult.
Once that was done I went back to the top end of the rudder to dimple, countersink and attach the counterweight, looks ok, although more threads are protruding than I would expect ( as you can see in the photo) but the bolt matches the part number called out in the plans.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Elevator stiffeners
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Elevator
So far, so good, trimmed seven stuffeners for the right elevator.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Dimpling the rudder skin (more)
The holes on the leading edge I have not dimpled, as it looks like when I bend that into a curve and blind rivet, those rivets don't require dimpling.
Was going to rivet r-710 onto the skeleton, but I need more lp4-3 rivets for that, also need to see if there is a bucking bar suitably shaped so I can use solid shank rivets.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Riveting the rudder skeleton
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Rudder bending & corrected the rudder brace
I received the replacement R-710 rudder brace, trimmed it, drilled it, cleaned, alodined and primed it.
As you can see from the pictures ( after alodining, but before priming ), the edge distance for the drilled holes is much better now.
I also built the bending brake for the rudder trailing edge and bent it.
Then pushed some rivets in R-713 and R-703, the first rivets in the rudder skeleton.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Monday, September 7, 2009
Back Riveting the stiffeners to the Rudder Skin
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Rudder primed and built the back-riveting plate
Once it was dry, I then proceeded to build the recessed back riveting plate setup.
Not possessing a router, i went scouring Lowes for some 5/16 board to match the thickness of the back riveting plate, but to no avail.
Although i did find some 1/2 inch plywood and some 3/16 peg board, which conveniently leaves 5/16 for the backing board.
Cut out the holes I needed tonight, and it is all ready to start back-riveting.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Priming
The last time I was priming the odor went right through the house, and lasted all day, definitely want to avoid that.
Then went to apply some primer...
The primer i am using is from spray cans of Zinc Oxide from Aircraft Spruce, and it's plenty frustrating, the temperature is cooler now than when i was priming the vertical stabilizer and the can clogs up so much that it is unusable. I need to find a better way....
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.
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Ok, I went out to try one more time after reading various tips about how to clean the nozzle, but not much changed.
Then I tried a can of the self-etching primer 'dupli-color' brand which i had picked up at an automotive store, man, what a difference, the spray nozzle is different, the ball in the can also seems a bit different, and the result is an easy, smooth application, I'll do a bit more research, but it looks like i've found a winner with this.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Prepping and Alodining
Also, decided to order another R-710 Rudder Horn Brace as the edge distance ( distance between the rivet holes and the edge of the material ) is too small. It should really be 2 rivet diameters from the center of the hole to the edge of the material ( 3/16 of an inch in this case ).
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Dimpled, deburred and edge finished the rudder
Spent tonight dimpling, deburring and edge finishing the remaining rudder components. I had a real job of dimpling the narrow ends of the ribs, but eventually got an acceptable result.
I've been following closely the discussions on the RV10 and Aero Electrics and the RV list at matronics I added a link to the web site to sign up to the lists on the right here ---->
Lots of very informative discussion on ground connections in the RV 10 list, although I am not building an RV 10 it looks like a lot of other people are, because that list is definitely the busiest of the RV related lists.
And there is a wildfire raging in the RVlist about aerobatics in unapproved aircraft, self taught aerobatics as well as discussions on how to bail out of various RVs.